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The New Spa Speak Making sense of skin care treatments by Karen Reed-Matthee

I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve been somewhat irregular regarding my skin care regimen. Facials have been few and far between and were usually the result of a frenzied event-inspired search through my drawers for that gift certificate I received … last year sometime. That’s all well and good, when you’re young and your collagen-rich skin is plump and forgiving. But I’ve learned, as the years wear on and my yin is eclipsed by my yang, that I’d happily trade a glowing — freshly exfoliated — countenance for a new pair of shoes, ones I didn’t really need anyway. Still, when I ventured out recently for the first facial I’d had in a while, I felt like the patron of a French restaurant who had been handed a menu — in French.

There were so many different kinds of treatments, many of which I’d never heard of before, from high tech to holistic, or a combination of both, that I ended up asking for my aesthetician’s recommendation. Later, after checking around with friends, I realized that other women were also less than fluent in the new spa speak. And let me say, many of these procedures are well worth knowing about. So we at Seattle Woman, after visiting a variety of spas and experiencing some of these treatments ourselves, decided to compile our own guide to help our readers understand the newer or less understood non-invasive (no surgery, no needles, no lengthy recovery time) skin care options and determine which ones are right for them.

Oxygen

It’s no secret that the oxygen content in our bodies declines as we get older. Pollution, cigarette smoking, illness and stress constrict blood vessels, further depriving the skin of sufficient oxygen. Skin becomes thinner, more sluggish and vulnerable to fine lines and wrinkles. Scientists have found that topical oxygen can help reenergize skin at the cellular level and, as a result, a number of spas are incorporating oxygen therapy as a stand-alone treatment or part of a facial package to improve tone and texture. Calidora administers pure oxygen to the skin to cleanse surface bacteria, infuse serums and hydrate.

Peels

These days, peels come in a variety of flavors and, literally, you could probably eat some of these natural, food-based exfoliating concoctions. Take the menu at Luscious Skin Spa: There’s the “Amazing Yam & Pumpkin Enzyme Peel” for evening out and rejuvenating skin tone, and the “Early Spring — Deep Hydrating Youth Renewing Facial” that employs a fruit-based glycolic peel and paprika treatment serum to exfoliate and regenerate tired dry skin, while minimizing fine lines. It improves circulation, speeds up cell turnover, cleans out pores and leaves the face feeling “plump, fresh and new,” says Luscious owner Mari Mamikunian. She offers organic and chemical peels, each geared to a person’s skin type and needs, as does Lotus Laser & Spa, where our assistant editor received a peel using a light vitamin C enzyme to gently remove the top dead layer of skin. SkinLogic, Ageless Center for Rejuvenation, and Calidora Skin Clinic also offer a wide range of peels. Euro Institute of Skin Care offers peels using glycolic acid, and salicylic acid to unclog pores, loosen blackheads and refine skin tone. It’s worth noting that spas and clinics that have dermatologists on staff, like Lotus Laser & Spa and Ageless Center of Rejuvenation, can offer stronger peels than those provided by aestheticians.

Cosmetic Acupuncture

“You will not only look younger, you will feel younger,” vows acupuncturist Brigitte Ardea of Return to Radiance. Facial rejuvenation acupuncture is also about revitalizing the whole body. Inserting the hair-fine needles into the skin initiates a local histamine reaction that stimulates cell metabolism and collagen production. Increased blood circulation brings more nutrients, oxygen and antibodies to the area, while dead skin cells, excess fluid and bacteria are removed The goal of facial acupuncture is to bring out a person’s “shen” or spirit, says acupuncturist Yvonne Pastika. “It really does help bring out the vitality in your skin, eyes and skin color,” she says. Both Ardea and Pastika recommend 10 to 12 consecutive appointments followed by regular maintenance appointments.

Acutonics

Applying precision-calibrated tuning forks to pressure points on the face and body is an ancient technique that employs sound vibrations for relaxation and healing. A tuning fork was part of the “signature facial” that I received at the Euro Institute of Skin Care, and I definitely felt those good vibrations against my skin.

Iontophoresis

This transdermal delivery system is used to propel a skin-rejuvenating cocktail through the skin via a low electrical current. “You can do what needles can do without the needles,” says Dr. Lucinda Messer of the Goddess Sanctuary. After a quick microdermabrasion treatment (see below), she uses the procedure to plump lips with collagen or drive a natural, vitamin-rich substance beyond the skin barrier for a more youthful appearance overall.

Kneipp Therapy

While Kneipp therapy or hydrotherapy (water therapy) is common in European spas, it is less popular in the United States. It involves applying cold or hot water to the skin to promote circulation. At the Euro Institute of Skin Care, my aesthetician used a palm-sized glass globe to calm my skin with cold water after treatment. It felt invigorating and soothing at the same time.

Light Therapy (Using LEDs)

This affordable and painless procedure has become part of the anti-aging arsenal of many spas in the Seattle area. At Bio-Therapeutic Anti-Aging Skin Spa, an interaction of red, blue, amber and green light is delivered through LEDs (light-emitting diodes) to increase cellular activity, improve elasticity, reduce acne and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. SkinLogic Skin Center in Seattle uses diode-emitted red light for tissue regeneration, says co-owner Rebecca Maser. “It’s extremely safe. There are no adverse reactions. It stimulates collagen and is excellent for rosacea and sensitive or irritated skin.” SkinLogic combines alpha hydroxyl acids with LED therapy for its Glow Treatment.

Microcurrent Technology

Known in the spa business as the “nonsurgical face-lift,” microcurrent technology helps tone and tighten skin. A microcurrent face-lift uses technologies developed in the medical and physiotherapy fields to activate the skin’s natural chemicals responsible for health and vitality. I received a mini-microcurrent lift during my facial at the Bio-Therapeutic Anti-Aging Skin Spa where co-founder David Suzuki developed a machine just for this purpose. Except for a little tingling here and there, the procedure was perfectly comfortable. Benefits are visible after one session, although lasting changes generally come with a series of a dozen or so 45-minute sessions twice a week. Calidora Skin Clinic recommends a series of six to 12 microcurrent treatments once or twice a week in combination with its Titan therapy, in which heat is delivered deep into the dermal layer of the skin for collagen contraction, lifting and tightening. And Ageless Center for Rejuvenation employs microcurrent technology in its procedure called Biotoning.

Clinical studies have shown that after 20 days of microcurrent treatment, collagen production increases by 14 percent, elastin by 48 percent and blood circulation by 38 percent. Scientists have also found that microcurrent face-lift treatments trigger the body’s production of amino acids and ATP (adenosine triphosphate), which accelerate cell repair and promote healthier cell production.

Microdermabrasion & Vibradermabrasion

Many spas around the Sound now offer some form of high-tech exfoliating treatment. Microdermabrasion involves spraying a fine stream of crystals (usually aluminum oxide) over the surface of the skin, while vacuuming away used crystals and skin debris. The result: a fresh, glowing countenance. If it’s done correctly, recovery time should be quick. Having dry, sensitive skin, I was hesitant about undergoing this procedure. But microdermabrasion has come a long way in the last 20 years. My aesthetician at Bio-Therapeutic assured me it would be geared to my skin type, and I emerged unscathed — with no irritation and incredibly smooth skin to boot. Lotus Laser & Spa offers vibradermabrasion, a treatment that uses a gently vibrating paddle embedded with very fine abrasive particles to exfoliate the outer layer of skin and stimulate the growth of new collagen. They also offer the Vibraderm infusion technique following the exfoliating procedure to allow therapeutic and hydrating skin care products to deeply penetrate the skin, resulting in a more youthful and radiant appearance.

Pulsed Light/IPL Technology

Broad-spectrum light is used to decrease or diffuse redness and remove age spots and brown pigments on the face, chest, neck and anywhere else that has experienced sun damage. “It’s not a true laser,” says Dr. Barbara Schell, dermatologist and owner of Ageless Center for Rejuvenation, so there’s little to no recovery time. “Some people don’t look bad at all after; some may have four or five days of tiny freckles on the skin, which are easily covered with makeup.” There are different levels of IPL, also called photorejuvenation. “There’s the aesthetician’s version, and then there’s the doctor’s version,” Schell says. “It’s generally stronger when administered by a doctor.” At Lotus Laser, IPL is performed in several sessions repeated at three- to four-week intervals, depending on the severity of the client’s skin condition. Dr. Lucinda Messer of the Goddess Sanctuary uses a similar procedure, variable pulsed light, to “remove hair and pigment, increase collagen, tighten up wrinkles and treat rosacea and spider veins.” She recommends four to six treatments for lasting improvements.

Thermage®

Thermage uses radiofrequency (RF) technology to deliver tighter skin, renewed facial contours and healthier collagen. “There’s no downtime, no swelling, no bruising,” says Dr. Schell of Ageless Center for Rejuvenation. Unlike laser, the procedure can be performed on patients of all skin types. Results show tightening improvements gradually over two to six months after a treatment. While Thermage is one of the more expensive non-invasive procedures, the improvements are permanent. “It’s a one-time deal,” says Schell.

Titan

Like Thermage, the goal of the Titan procedure is to contract collagen to lift, tighten and contour, and to build collagen over time. Titan, however, uses an infrared light source to heat collagen in the deep layer of skin. At Calidora Skin Clinic, a series of typically five treatments are performed two to four weeks apart for optimal results.

Karen Matthee is the editor of Seattle Woman. She vows to be more dedicated to her skin care regimen.

SKIN SPAS

Ageless Center for Rejuvenation
601 N 34th St, Suite C
Seattle
206-467-1000
www.agelessinseattle.com

Bio-therapeutic Anti-Aging Skin Spa
2244 1st Ave S
Seattle
206-501-2466, 866-955-2466
www.biotherapeuticispa.com

Calidora Skin Clinic
Various Locations
1-877-399-6547
www.calidoraskinclinics.com

Euro Institute of Skin Care
10904 SE 176th St
Renton
425-255-8100
www.euroinstitute.com

FaceLogic
23535 NE Novelty Hill Rd
Redmond
425-868-6008
www.facelogicredmond.com

The Goddess Sanctuary
2012 Market St
Kirkland
425-827-9770
www.drlmallory.com/goddess-sanctuary.php

Lotus Laser & Spa
1551 116th Ave NE #B2
Bellevue
425-454-2617
www.lotuslaserspa.com

Luscious Skin Spa
6419 Phinney Ave N
Seattle
206-706-4977
www.lusciousskinspa.com

Return to Radiance
6515 12th Ave NE
Seattle
206-579-2299
www.returntoradiance.com

SkinLogic Skin Center
7900 E Green Lake Dr N
Seattle
206-523-4444
www.skinlogicskincenter.com

Yvonne Pastika, L.Ac, Dipl. Ac.
Capitol Hill and Redmond
425-255-8100

©2009 Caliope Publishing Company